Between Two Rivers

Between two Central Valley rivers, the Tuolumne and the Stanislaus, lies a remnant of California's formerly great prairie, a green expanse of hills and hollows, vernal pools and rocky bluffs.  Eric and I recently spent a day exploring these two rivers and the prairie in between, stopping at a few of our favorite spots for wandering and birding along the way.

Arching boughs of Valley Oak over the Tuolumne River

Highway 132 loosely follows the river, heading east out of Modesto toward Waterford and La Grange.  Tucked away in the farming community of Waterford is a two mile-long pathway along a peaceful stretch of the Tuolumne River, a favorite destination among locals for walking, jogging, fishing and, of course, birding.

If you follow the blog of another Central Valley birder, Geotripper's California Birds by Garry Hayes, you will be well acquainted with the avifauna of this area!  Over the last few years, a handful of local birders have recorded 136 species of birds along the trail, to date!

A section of the Tuolumne River Parkway Trail

Though the vast riparian forests that once bordered Central Valley rivers have been severely degraded over the last century or two, hints of the forests' former grandeur can be seen in places along the Tuolumne River Parkway trail.  Majestic Valley Oaks arch over the river and soft willows grow along the water's edge.  Non-native plants are rampant here, however: annual grasses, milk thistle, poison hemlock, pokeweed, prickly pear cactus, Himalayan blackberry, tree of heaven, tamarisk, tree tobacco, fig trees - the list goes on and on!  What should be here, growing in and among the Valley Oaks, willows and cottonwoods, are native tangles of California blackberry and wild roses, thickets of elderberry, hanging bowers of California wild grape and poison oak, all plants that provide exceptional shelter and food for wildlife.

But on a pleasant spring day, when the whole forest is green with lush new growth and the birds are singing, it's easy to picture just how beautiful these riparian woodlands of old used to be.

One of my favorite sections along the trail, which I romantically refer to as "the bower."

East of Waterford, a few more hidden gems are tucked away along the Tuolumne River just off Highway 132.  Try taking a few short walks to explore the Joe Domecq Wilderness Area, the vicinity of the Old LaGrange Bridge, and the historic covered bridge at Robert's Ferry.  A few of the birds you are likely to encounter at any of these spots along the Tuolumne River include Osprey, Wood Ducks, Belted Kingfishers, Tree Swallows, Bullock's Orioles, Acorn Woodpeckers and Oak Titmice.

Looking east, upriver toward the Sierra from the Robert's Ferry Bridge over the Tuolumne River

Turn north off Highway 132 onto Crabtree Road, drive several miles through relatively new almond orchards and the blink-and-you-miss-it spot on the map called "Warnerville," and you will find yourself deep in a quiet, remote, ancient prairie landscape, dotted with distant bluffs and graced by shallow vernal pools.

The white flowers of meadowfoam bloom along the meandering path of a vernal swale, a shallow, seasonal drainage connecting vernal pools

Spring is, without question, the best time to visit the prairie.  Annual grasses (introduced non-natives) are green during this season, and for a fleeting time, if rain has been adequate, vernal pools come to life and wildflowers abound.  Look for pale yellow butter 'n' eggs (Triphysaria sp.), sunny Blennosperma and goldfields (Lasthenia), purple Dowingia, and white meadowfoam (Limnanthes) blooming in rings around vernal pools.

Wildflowers mark the locations of vernal pools on the prairie.

While cattle fill the ecological niche once occupied by elk and antelope, most birds that historically called the prairies home can still be found here (albeit in decreased numbers).  Look for a wide variety of raptors, including Golden Eagles, Ferruginous, Rough-legged, and Red-tailed Hawks, American Kestrels and Prairie Falcons, and Burrowing Owls.  Other typical grassland birds include Western Meadowlark, Horned Lark, Western Kingbird, Loggerhead Shrike and Savannah Sparrow.

A perennial creek on the prairie provides life-giving water year-round; in the background is a pool of meadowfoam, marking the location of a drying vernal pool.

Stop at the Willms Road pond, what I believe is an enhanced (dammed) naturally occuring wetland, for a chance to see Tricolored Blackbirds, Marsh Wrens, Common Yellowthroats, rails and waterfowl.

The Willms Road pond, a permanent wetland/stock pond lined with tules, attractive to a variety of birds.

North of the pond, pass historic Willms Ranch before reaching Highway 108.  Crossing the highway, the road drops down to the Stanislaus River and the historic town of Knight's Ferry.  Knight's Ferry offers a charming downtown, 19th century covered bridge, museum, river access, picnic tables and a few miles of meandering trails along the river.  (Though please note: at this time, all parking lots, visitors centers and restrooms are closed.)  Hike upstream, climbing the popular trail up to oak-dotted bluffs above the river, or hike along the short, flat Russian Rapids trail through a field of bush lupine to a secluded spot along the river.

A quiet stretch of the Stanislaus River, below the Russian Rapids

Belted Kingfishers fish along the river, while Violet-green Swallows hawk for insects above; Acorn Woodpeckers drum, Bushtits flit from shrub to shrub, Turkey Vultures ride the thermals, and furtive Phainopeplas hide in clumps of oak mistletoe.  Upstream, on the rocky cliffs above the river, Rock Wrens, Canyon Wrens and Rufous-crowned Sparrows are usually found, while Great Horned Owls hang out in the groves of trees around the covered bridge.

Silver Bush Lupine in bloom

Spring is such a beautiful time of year in California's Great Central Valley, it would be a shame to miss it!  With the exception of popular Knight's Ferry, the places mentioned here are usually pretty quiet - you should have no trouble keeping your distance from others during this time!  Be smart, be respectful, and be safe!

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