Ode to Jetty Road

It's an unlikely spot, I'll give you that much.  It often smells of low tide, the restroom situation is iffy, and broken glass sparkling on the sandy roadside shoulder is evidence that car break-ins can and do occur.  The two towers of the Moss Landing Power Plant rise across the harbor where fishing boats lay at anchor in the quiet waters, protected by rock jetties bespangled with bird droppings.

A romantic seaside destination it is not.

And yet, this place holds a profound romance, an appeal, an irresistible draw all of its own.

At least, it does for me.

Situated directly off of California's scenic Highway 1 just north of the mouth of Elkhorn Slough and the tiny fishing village of Moss Landing, Jetty Road is among the top birding destinations along the central coast.

The entire Monterey Bay area is one of our state's finest jewels, and little Moss Landing Harbor is one of its most dazzling, if humble, facets. 

 From the turn off of Highway 1, Jetty Road runs for three-quarters of a mile behind a long row of restored dunes between Moss Landing State Beach and the harbor, before coming to a dead-end at a dirt parking lot near the north jetty.

At low tide, exposed mudflats north and south of the road and surrounding salt marshes of pickleweed draw a great number of shorebirds, from Long-billed Curlews and Marbled Godwits to tiny Least Sandpipers and Semi-palmated Plovers.  Be sure to look up a tide chart ahead of time: at low tide, the mud flats are too distant to be seen well, while at high tide they disappear entirely.  Aim for sometime in between.  During migration, these mudflats are excellent places to scope for rarities.

The harbor itself is dredged in order to remain accessible to boats, and the channel of deep, quiet water is a draw for scoters, scaup and bufflehead, loons and grebes, Common Murres and Pigeon Guillemots.  A sandy spit of land that changes size with the tides is a popular loafing ground for harbor seals, as well as a raucous roost for abundant numbers of gulls and terns, representing a wide array of species.  (The most diversity is found during the winter, from about November to February.)
Cormorants and Brown Pelicans preside over the harbor from perches up and down the long jetties.

All three of our loons may be found in the harbor during the winter (Common, Pacific, and Red-throated), as well as five species of grebes (Eared, Horned, Western, Clark's, and Red-necked); all three of our cormorant species (Double-crested, Brandt's, and Pelagic) reside around the harbor year-round.

The 20 mile drive from the city of Monterey to Jetty Road takes about 30 minutes, as the highway passes restored dunes, crosses the Salinas River, and traverses Castroville's fertile fields of artichokes and cruciferous vegetable crops before arriving at the quaint assortment of charmingly ramshackle buildings that is the town of Moss Landing.

Venturing into the little town of Moss Landing is a delight.  The town is, more or less, equal parts fishing industry, marine science lab, and antique shop.  It's a little quirky, a little gritty, and altogether enchanting.  And in the evenings, everyone gathers at Phil's Fish Market, especially when there is live music on the weekends.  (A bread bowl of clam chowder at sunset, eaten on plastic outdoor picnic tables, is our ritual end to a good day of birding.)

Out on Jetty Road, you're likely to find an assortment of people as well: barefoot surfers dripping with sea water and California vibes clamber over the dunes to join their long-haired van-dwelling compatriots parked along the road; day-tripping tourists come and go, speaking a delightfully vast array of languages, their facial expressions running the gamut from delighted to intrigued to lost to underwhelmed to utterly bored; and of course there are birders and other wildlife watchers, in paradise found, toting expensive optics, clipboards and notebooks.

For, wildlife reigns at Jetty Road.  

Colorful kayaks skim across the harbor as naturalists and sightseers alike venture on wildlife safaris up famed Elkhorn Slough.  Local whale enthusiasts see your birding enthusiasm and raise it a matter of degrees, as they spy whale spouts from the Highway 1 bridge and excitedly rush out to the jetty for a better look at a passing pod.  And everyone, from young families to retired folks, delights at the sight of the harbor's resident band of sea otters.

Dress warmly, pack a lunch, bring your binoculars and spotting scopes, and settle in for a memorable day of birding at Jetty Road!  Then, prepare to come back, again and again.  Because despite the smells, the porta-potties and the biting wind, true birders can't resist the allure of Jetty Road and the 200 or more species of birds that may be seen there.

Each time one ventures out Jetty Road, a new surprise awaits!